Figgy's Studio

stopping by

2012-02-24T20:58:00.000-08:00

Gosh, it's been a long time! I've been so caught up in Figgy's Patterns and all of life that I forgot I had this little figgys studio blog. It was nice to go back in time through old entries and see how my life has evolved. Amazing, what can happen in three years. Franco is almost finished with 2nd grade, Jules will be starting Kindergarten this year and Adam will begin his paramedic program very soon. Business, well goodness....Figgy's blew up (in a good way), Karen and I wrote a book then found that our paths are taking off in different directions (in a good way too) so I re-branded and have a new wonderful Partner Daniela.
A lot of choices, a lot of prayers and I feel like I'm where I'm supposed to be. I've decided that I may post here from time to time but it will most likely be more of a family/personal blog that any and all of you are welcome to hang around. See you soon!

Book Announcement & Pattern Giveaway!

2011-03-09T11:06:00.000-08:00

As most of you know Karen and I have been working on a secret book project for the last 9 months and today is the day we get to announce what this secret is all about!!!! Please visit the pattern shop blog at www.patternsbyfiggys.com/blog to view our announcement and leave a comment to be entered to win our giveaway!

Moving Time

2011-01-17T16:21:00.000-08:00

Hello faithful followers of Figgy's Studio!
I have taken the reins of the Patterns by Figgy's blog and I would love for you to join me there.
I may be back here one day but for now I'm busy posting tutorials and announcements for the pattern line.
I hope to see you there!! THANK YOU!

http://www.patternsbyfiggys.com/

GIVEAWAY DAY FOR PBF!!

2010-12-13T23:46:00.000-08:00

Please visit the Pattern Shop for a chance to win something FUN!

Even if you don't sew I'm sure you know someone that does!

Merry Christmas!

www.patternsbyfiggys.com/blog

A Zakka Christmas

2010-12-04T15:31:00.000-08:00

It's beginning to feel a lot like a Zakka Christmas and I'm happy about that! I bought Zakka Sewing almost a year ago at Bolt fabric shop. I really enjoy finding and purchasing sewing books becuase if you think about it you are really getting a deal! This book has 25 Japanese projects for the home and I can honestly say I love all of them. Obviously I fell in love with the book instantly but of course it got pushed to the side because of a busy schedule. One of the reasons I love Christmas is I have no choice but to grab all the goodies I purchased over the year and then actually open them and make someone something adorable. It was hard to choose what project I wanted create for who so this year I've decided to wrap them all in numbered muslin bags and put them in a pile. I'm going to tell my Aunts & sister to pick a number. I've finished three out of five but with how quickly these are going I should be done by the end of this afternoon! Here's what I've finished so far..

In book they instruct you to handstitch the door onto the mat but I chose to stitch it becuase I have a problem with patience. Looking at the back I should have just followed the instructions or stitched it on prior to attaching the back...duh!

This cutie takes about 15 mintues.

I little wonky on the side, woops. It's now "homemade" and not handmade. I'll probably take it out and fix it before wrapping. After Christmas I'll continue to think about that wonky side and regret not fixing it if I didn't. :)

My last two project for today!!!

Many blessings to you and yours!

2010-12-03T21:35:00.000-08:00

The holidays came early here at Patterns by Figgy's. We'd like to thank all of our faithful seamsters for your support of small business and handmade. We have grown a lot this year and with growth came many lessons; not the least of which was how to be a better business and designers for you. We have really enjoyed seeing your garments on flickr so please keep it up! As a thank you Karen and I will be offering our patterns (all seasons) at our Big Cartel shop for 25% off now through December 20th! Please use code: PBF2010 when checking out!

Coming this January....Big Sizes! We will be releasing our size 8-14yr "Tee for Two" & "Little Woo". We also have had requests for the "Little Woo" to be made in adult sizes. Do you have an interest in seeing "Little Woo" offered for women? Leave a comment and let us know.

In February we will be part of "Celebrate the Boy Month" again over at MADE & Made by Rae. We will be releasing one of our Spring/Summer boy patterns during that month but you'll have to wait and see what they are!!! We will also be sharing a bit more about our book!!

Happy Sewing - Shelly
ps. Thank you Franco for creating such a cute "Thank You" card. You warm my heart.

Green Grocery Bag Challenge!

2010-11-28T23:58:00.000-08:00

emandsprout

I received a letter from my dear friend Kristin tonight and I immediatly wanted to share it with all of you. I'm so happy she reminded me of this cause and I hope by posting this it will inspire one of you to join the challenge!

Dear friends,

I'm writing today to tell you about a little holiday sewing project called The Green Grocery Bag Challenge. I'm hoping that you'll be inspired to tell your fans and readers about it and hopefully, together, the sewing community can do the Earth a small favor this season.

Fact 1: US consumers generate 4 million tons of wrapping paper and shopping bag waste during the holiday season alone.

Fact 2: The US alone goes through 100 billion single-use plastic grocery bags every year.

Fact 3: This year, you can make a difference!

The Green Grocery Bag Challenge is a project to encourage sewists to wrap their holiday gifts in reusable cloth grocery bags, thus reducing the amount of wrapping paper entering the waste stream, while simultaneously getting multi-use bags into the hands of consumers (gift recipients.)

Our goal is to challenge the sewing community to include Mother Earth in their holiday plans.

Get Involved!

If you're inspired by the idea, please spread the word! Here are just a few ways you could help:

Tell your customers and readers about the Green Grocery Bag Challenge.

Write about waste statistics.

Post a free tutorial for a cloth grocery bag on your blog.

Take photos of ways to wrap gifts in grocery bags so they don’t look like, well...groceries.

Send people to the Green Grocery Bag Challenge Facebook page.

Make a video of how to “mass produce” a bunch of bags at once.

Offer a discount with a Green Grocery Bag code.

Suggest ways to repurpose Christmas sheets, old sweaters, vintage table linens and more into reusable cloth bags.

Tweet #greengrocerybagchallenge.

Have a contest or giveaway related to The Challenge.

Organize a Green Grocery Bag sewing event in your community.

December 3, 2010

We encourage you to take action any time between now and Christmas, but we are also hoping for an industry-wide blast of information, inspiration and encouragement on December 3, so please mark it on your calendar! (Really though, any day is fine!)

Links

Visit The Green Bag Lady for information about bag consumption or contact teresa@vanhatten.com for bag sewing patterns and videos you can use. (Teresa, The Green Bag Lady, is the inspiration behind this project! She has given away more than 13,000 reusable cloth bags!)

Join The Green Grocery Bag Challenge Flickr group to share photos of handmade bags and gifts wrapped in reusable cloth bags.

PS--I'm very reluctant to use a fear-based motivator, so I went back about forth about bringing this up. I am, however, concerned about the recent reports about high lead content in the kind of multi-use bags that are sold in grocery stores. Mainly I'm worried that it could be a set-back to the movement to end the use of single-use bags. I'm hopeful that lots of well-timed encouragement to use cloth bags will remind people that paper, plastic and lead (!) are not their only options.

Kristin

Thank you Kristin for all the wonderful ideas and inspiration!

Not so crafty? Here are some fun bags available online for purchase!

The Craft Pantry

Zanna Printed Textile (love her)

Kimball Prints

Oh Little Rabbit

The Blooming Thread

Looking for some more gift inspiration? On Tuesday jump over to Patterns by Figgy's gift guide for more ideas!

Have a great week! See you soon!

Shelly

drum roll please....

2010-11-03T21:08:00.000-07:00

You guessed it! Karen and I are publishing a book with Wiley! We are so happy that Wiley took an interest in Karen and me, and our idea for a book. We can't say much more at this point, but we think you'll be very excited! Soon, we will be allowed to reveal some more news. One of the reasons we decided to work with Wiley was because they are committed to expanding their craft-based offerings, and we admire so many of the authors they also work with (such as: Anna Maria Horner, Sandy Henderson & Patty Young to name just a few). They have published some beautiful books so far, and we are honored to be next to those talented ladies on the book shelves next year! Plus, I heard they throw the best parties at Quilt Market!

Please excuse us for being away so long. We are almost finished with our final deadline and the photo shoots are coming along beautifully-- thanks to Studio Christy here in Portland. I really can't wait to share some of photos with you!
The book has been a time-consuming machine, and yet business must go on as usual -- and so it has. An exciting email came in this week from New York! Purl Soho (one of our one of favorite fabric boutiques) has welcomed "Patterns by Figgy's"! Our patterns will be arriving in New York and California next week and will be available for your sewing whims online and in their New York shop.

Also, as we've mentioned, coming this Winter: "Tee for Two" and "Little Woo" will be available in sizes 8-14, by popular demand. Thanks so much for your interest!
In the meantime, don't forget to keep posting your creations to our Flickr group! We love what we see!!

Happy Sewing!

I love the smell of flowers..

2010-09-25T16:54:00.000-07:00

especially peonies (they're my favorite) ! Karen recently posted a tutorial on how to make your own handmade flowers with knit & woven scraps on our website. They might not smell as lovely as your favorite but will look just as pretty. Hop on over and check it out. http://www.patternsbyfiggys.com/

My sincere apologies to the "52 weeks of bam" self portrait people. I'm quite filled to the rim these days. After the next few deadlines are turned in I can tell you that my next break is January 2011!! So I'll be sure and post more photos. I hope this photo counts becuase it's the only picture I have had taken of me in the last month. Scene: my birthday. a pirate party but I hadn't finished with my "outfit" yet so I look quite lame. :)

I'm so excited and I just can't hide it!

2010-09-05T22:44:00.000-07:00

Have you seen it yet?

I need to crawl out of my crafty cave and pick up a copy!

One little spotlight and I'm recharged. Bring it.

See that little gorgeous photo of Amara!

If you live in the UK and are looking to purchase our patterns visit: www.backstitch.co.uk !

I'm Back.

2010-08-29T20:53:00.000-07:00

Playing catch up this week. My husband and children took me away for 5 days. My laptop and telephone were kidnapped and I'm so happy they were. It's funny I didn't think I could leave my business for that long without any kind of technology but with a few "Out of The Office" auto email replies, I was ok. Having a terrific partner also helps so very much (thank you Karen). We went camping at Cresent Lake, took a visit to Crater Lake and finished our time away with a stop at the Enchanted Forest. I have had so many deadlines, late night pattern stuffing and bookkeeping that I was beginning to miss out all the wonderful things happening around me. The laughter we shared as a family was so wonderful and there is nothing better than watching your child fall asleep in your arms. Thank you Adam for kidnapping me and reminding me how much I love you all.

Cresent Lake

Crater Lake (um wow)

My hot husband in the Lake.

A final stop at the Enchanted Forest Amusement Park.

Franco and I were riding on "The Hopper". The hopper lifts you high and then drops you when you least expect it. Franco and I rode this 3x's in a row. It was so nice to giggle.

side note: the photo at the top was taken after 4 days in the forest.

Attention Portlanders

September & October Teaching Schedule at Modern Domestic !

Little Woo - Two part class- September 7th & 14th 6:30 - 9:00pm (Adults only)

Get your little girl ready for fall in style and keep her cozy at the same time. The “Little Woo Cardigan” is a swingy wrap sewing with knits and using a woven fabric for a darling trim. In this class you will learn how to work with knits, make your own bias tape, and create button loops to finish a garment your child will wear again and again. This cute cool weather cardigan can be a bit dressier than a regular hooded sweatshirt, but pairs with jeans for a casual back to school look. Pattern covers sizes 12mo-6/7years.

Tee For Two - September 18th (Adults only) Saturday - 10am - 1pm

All season pattern including a short sleeve & long sleeve options for both Girls and Boys. This is a perfect pattern for the seamster who wants to learn how to work with knit fabrics & create fun, comfortable T-Shirts for their child. Seams on the outside of our slim-fit Tee aren’t just stylish, they’re practical, too. An ultra-smooth interior protects even the most sensitive kid from irritation so he or she can concentrate on what’s important…having fun!

Sewing Camp for the Kids - September 22nd, 29th & October 3rd 4-6pm

This is the perfect class for the child who has never sewn before. They will learn sewing machine functions, the basics of fabric, using measurements, and how to sew seams. They will also get to work with a simple pattern to make a basic garment. This class will include finished projects that can be shown off and used for years to come, and of course their sewing skills will last a lifetime. We have chosen wonderful projects such as a roomy reversible tote bag that they can use on your trips to the library or help carry home the grocery goods and envelope pillow covers to decorate their room or special spot in the house. Sewists will also create a cute skirt or pair of comfy pajama bottoms. All of these great projects will allow your child to be creative with fabric choices and express their personal taste (class for kids age 8-12).

Kids Sewing - Open Studio September 28th 3:30- 6pm

Now that your child has gained some skills in summer sewing camp, where do they go from here? Put on the schedule by popular request, this supervised open studio time will allow your kid or teen the freedom to create any garment or accessory they like with the assistance from Me. Previous sewing class experience is necessary to sign up for this session, but it doesn’t need to be here at MD.

Kids Sewing Project Runway Skirts, October 12, 19, 26, November 2, 4:00pm

In this terrific class your child or teen will learn how to design and sew their own custom sized A-line skirt pattern. They will be able to take this pattern home with them and sew as many skirts as they like. This class will give them the opportunity to go beyond just an A-line skirt to also more projects such as a yoga skirt with a knit waistband in knit fabric.

Tee For Two - October 20th (Adults only), 10am - 1pm

Kids Sewing - Open Studio, October 27th, 3:30- 6pm

My girls

2010-08-15T23:38:00.000-07:00

I love teaching the girls because I don't have a girl. I love that on the first day I ask them how old each one of them are and then I ask them how old do they think I am. The worst, 42 and the best, 20.

My girls are creative, honest, kind, adventurous and so fun! I have two more weeks of kid camps and then I have a break, but I will miss my girls. I was showing the girls last week my blog and I told them about the 52 weeks of self portraits that I am participating in. They said that so far the only photo that sort of looks like me is the first one and I look a little like the one where I'm holding Franco. I was happy to hear that b/c I did not care for the last photo. One of my girls offered to take my photo for this weeks submission and of course had to say yes. Please keep in mind that is was a LOOONNNNGG day and that's my excuse.

Having your own business is tough. Having a partner that lives in MI can be tough but not having an intern yet....now that's tough! On this wonderfully hot day in Portland my duties included but were not limited to: Stitching, folding & stuffing 80 patterns for one of our distributors, packaging a few orders from Big Cartel, answered 23 emails, I put my phone on silent because I just can't answer the phone these days, finished an interview in collaboration with Karen for "Crafty Mama's", finished a tutorial for Sew Mama Sew and finally out the door. Off to the post, a stop at Collage for some new graphite pencils, hopped into my favorite NE restaurant the Tin Shed for a coffee to go and then had the pleasure of teaching 5 awesome kids how to sew a tote bag. Off at 4pm and home again. I kiss and hug my boys, eat some food (thanks mom) and since I didn't get to see my kids all day I had bed/bath duty. Tonight I felt extra bad for not seeing them that we played lego and a game of "Sorry" and I read an extra chapter of Harry Potter book III (man those chapters are long). Kissed my husband goodnight because he was getting up for work at 3am. Fold some laundry, take a shower and finally I get to sew something, maybe. I usually quit around 12:30 am. Am I telling you this so you would feel bad? No. I just needed to get out that having your own business can be tough but when you love what you do then it all goes away at the end of the day. My only issue is wanting to spend more time with my kids before they grow up. Does watching them sleep count? I miss them these days. Any ideas on how I can see them again?

On my way.

This little guy held on for dear life from somewhere close to my house all the way to the NE. About 25 minutes. I think he had a good time because he didn't jump off at the red lights.

Portland Bikers...everywhere you go.

Best little art supply store.

mmm. SanFran Sandwich is the best!

My second home

My girls!

Me: Tired but happy.

PS. you have to check out a little blog one of students recently started. So cute!

http://shaenasthread.wordpress.com/

What's going on?

2010-08-06T21:00:00.000-07:00

What isn't going on?

Patterns by Figgy's has had a lot of terrific exposure these past fews weeks. Most recently I had an interview with Sew Mama Sew (feel free to pop over and leave a comment) and I contributed an art smock tutorial for all the parents that have little ones that love art but you don't love the mess. Karen also contributed a wonderful tutorial on using knits.Thank you to Kristin and Beth at SMS for such wonderful support! You can also find an editorial in Sew Hip magazine in there next issue! My amazing partner Karen represented our little company at Maker Faire in Detroit last weekend and I'm so thankful to her for all of her hard work. Karen and I have been laughing a lot these past few weeks because I think every editorial/fashion show and interview we've had has botched our name in some way or another. A lot of the time one gets credit for another's hard work but we are a team regardless of who's name is posted where. It's all a part of partnership, getting over the ego and just enjoy the moment.

Modern Domestic. I love Lupine, Michelle & Gina so very much. They are incredible women and they have such a fabulous business and I'm so thankful to be able to teach at their shop. Speaking of teaching, here is the Fall schedule so far...

Sewing Camps: Kids & Teens
August 10, 11 & 12th 10am - 1pm (2 spots left)
August 17, 18 & 19th 1pm - 4pm (3 spots left)

Project Runway Skirts: Kids & Teens
August 24, 25th & 26th 10am - 1pm (1 spot left)

Bird Mobile: All Ages
August 25th 1:30 - 4:30

Tee for Two: Adults Class FULL
August 14th 1pm -4pm

There will be more to come very soon.

Social Life, that's funny! I am happy to say I was able to get out of my studio for a little fun with some lovely friends. The kids and I went to Sauvie Island to Kruger's Farm to meet some friends and pick some berries (yum). They had a terrific tire swing, sand box and mini stage that the kids really enjoyed, maybe a little more than the picking.

and finally... week 3 self portrait taken by my son Franco

My shirt was made by my friend of mine Gabrien, THANK YOU!

Have a terrific week! Shelly

week 2 & year 7

2010-07-31T17:53:00.000-07:00

For week 2 of the big bam, I have to cheat JUST a little. You see, my first born was born August 1st and I must honor him in this moment. I don't feel guilty for cheating because one of the biggest reasons I'm doing this is for my family, especially my boys. In this photo my son was 6 hours old. On that day I changed from "I" to "we". Once in awhile I am also an "us" because I have to give Adam some credit for creating this son of ours, but really it was 99% me.

"Franco"

Create a free slideshow with Picnik!

Taking the Leap

2010-07-26T01:00:00.000-07:00

Jenny over at Southern Institute for Domestic Arts and Crafts is participating in "The Art of Self Portrait - 52 weeks of BAM". For me, this is a challenge, facing myself. I love to catch the "moment" but I don't like to be caught myself. The days I feel good are the days I "put my face on" and that is usually for Sunday morning church or a date with my husband. Most of the other days I allow myself an excuse wether it be work or the kiddos.

Photo by Husband

As I'm typing I realize something, I only think I look good when "I put my face on" or get dressed up? Huh. I don't like that, but for the last few years I would say it's true. Having children & watching time pass does change you in many ways. I never thought it'd bother me to see signs of aging or see a "beauty mark" from my having children but as I took the first photo for my first self portrait I became scared to death of what I would see. We went for a small road trip today. Cannon Beach. It can get a little touristy for the Coast but the weather said "Go for it" so we did. For the first time in a long time I actually handed the camera to my husband and said "could you take a picture of me?" I think he was a little shocked. I needed to get it over with and I needed to warm up to the idea of allowing this to happen. After 4 hours playing in the sand and having some fun it was time for me to take the self portrait. Click.

There's a smudge on my lens which made my mouth look wierd.

My stomach turned and I couldn't wait to go home and I planned to delete the photo and forget the whole thing but I thought about my kids and my parents. One of my favorite things to do is look through old photos of my parents when they were around my age or younger and imagine what was going on in their heads at that time. Although I have two boys, I hope at least one of them will be interested in looking through old photos of Adam and I and seeing our youth and wonder what was going on in our lives. The only problem is they'll see photos of our dating, getting married and then soon after Franco was born the photos of me slowly begin to disappear. I don't want them to know that I disappeared out of the photo because I didn't think I looked good enough to be in them. How sad would that be. With that thought I did not push delete and I decided to take the leap. I also did not put my face on for these shots (OH NO!) So you'll have to bare with me for the next 52 weeks because some of these photos may be ...... well, we'll see.

Staring

Julian - I have no idea what he's thinking but he is having a wonderful conversation with himself and the ocean.

Franco - You'll see him briefly in the ocean with a few other boys. Franco knows no stranger when it comes to other kids, I love this about him. Later he told me that the ocean was burning cold.

Cannon Beach - 74 degrees, foggy & a perfect Sunday afternoon.

Woop Woop!

2010-07-22T11:23:00.000-07:00

We know you have been chomping at the bit to get your hands on our new patterns! Because we love our seamsters so, we have released a limited quantity to be shipped as soon as they are ready (Monday) and you can place your pre-orders by clicking on the covers:

*If you are interested in buying multiple patterns at one time please visit our BigCartel shop.

www.patternsbyfiggys.bigcartel.com

Happy Sewing!

Karen & Shelly

2010-07-17T22:49:00.000-07:00

(he wouldn't keep a straight face for any pictures that day.

excuses, excuses

2010-07-13T19:47:00.000-07:00

My son Franco has a million excuses these days and if I stop and actually listen to him some are valid. I hope that you will find some of my excuses valid for being away from my home blog for so long. Here goes:

It's Summer!
Fall Line Release coming 8/1 = BUSY
Bronchitis
Sewing Camps for Kids/Teens
Sinus Infection (I have an immune deficiency, any advice helps!)
Guest Blogging (more to come in August at Magpie, Sew Hip Mag & a few others)
Adding more distribution companies & fabric shops to the list which means more pattern stuffing (the only part I really dislike). Note to Self: Must hire an intern.
Secret Project. If I told you, Karen would be very disappointed in me which we all know is worse than mad (ask any mother)
Getting ready for Maker Faire! Thank you Karen!!

I'll stop there because if I went on I'd start to sound like a whiner!

I hope in the future to make time for my home blog. Scratch that...I will make time for my home blog. It's where I began and it's where I don't want to forget. Just a note to my sweet followers, this blog may change a little from business to personal. I'm keeping the tutorials and business chat over at the website blog.

Speaking of the website. We recently had one of our pattern testers and friend be a guest blogger, the amazing Kelly Hogaboom. If you know her at all, in person or online, you know she “tells it like it is” and gives her all to everything she does. As she was sewing up the Tee for Two pattern, she documented some strategies on sewing with knits that will be useful for anything you construct with stretchy fabrics.

If you’ve visited our Pattern Collections pages, you know that we have a couple of patterns for knits coming out this fall. In anticipation of that (and having learned to never rush development of a pattern again) we have our pattern testers helping us make them perfect for you right now.

Please be aware that the sneak peeks you see below are not the final design. We tirelessly worked through the fit and construction details to give you the very best patterns for the most enjoyable sewing experience possible! I think the coolest part about these patterns is that you achieve a beautiful result using a regular sewing machine.

Sewing with knits can be intimidating. Working with fabrics that have stretch require some flexibility (appropriately, I guess…) on our part. Knits are an area where you may just have to dive in and try something a few times to feel comfortable.

One of our pattern testers is the amazing and wonderful Kelly Hogaboom. If you know her at all, in person or online, you know she “tells it like it is” and gives her all to everything she does. As she was sewing up the Tee for Two pattern, she documented some strategies on sewing with knits that will be useful for anything you construct with stretchy fabrics.

I hope her tutorial will give you the confidence you need to attempt sewing with knits for the first time; you may learn something new, even if you are an experienced seamster.

Please comment to share your own knit-sewing advice, favorite techniques, or ask questions!

in kelly’s own words:
I promised a few people a little blog regarding sewing with knits; here goes. My daughter requested a shirt in “earthy” tones. I had just enough in my stash to make her one. The natural-colorway was from a piece of organic bamboo yardage given to me by a friend; the brown was from a 100% organic cotton t-shirt I thrifted (I used most of the shirt to make a headband for my mother). In both cases once I cut out the shirt pattern pieces I ended up with only a small portion scraps to compost. I love it that I use fabric so economically.

The pattern I’m demonstrating here is the Tee for Two from Patterns by Figgy’s (and while I’m at it – seriously? You could not find a couple of better people to help the beginning sewist achieve rugged yet stylish, boutique, unique home-sewn awesomeness!). Regardless of whether you use this pattern or another, the techniques used here should benefit anyone attempting to home-sew a t-shirt.
Knits are tricky. So many sewists claim to “whip up a t-shirt on the serger” – but the truth is, for most of us it takes time to get proficient at knits, especially those with a high degree of stretch. Many home sewists don’t even own a serger (or they own one and don’t know how to use it). I hasten to add, a serger is not needed to make great knitwear. The following tutorial regards making a t-shirt on a sewing machine. It needs only a zig zag function to achieve good results (a width of 0.5 – 1.0 and a length of 3.0 was used for this shirt).
SIDE NOTE: Stabilizing knits is only an option but it does help.
One of the best tricks I know to make t-shirt sewing go easier is to stabilize the seam allowances. This means “painting” a solution on the seam allowances and allowing them to dry. This solution ensures that the knit will not roll nor be sucked into the feed dogs of the machine. It’s not a necessary step to sewing with t-shirt knits, but one that makes things a lot easier. In addition to creating an easier sewing experience, I have found the stitch formed on stabilized knits “floats” on the fabric (instead of being pulled into it). Not all knits need this treatment (a sturdy or non-stretch knit may not), but for my slim-fit t-shirt with the very stretchy, soft bamboo it made the whole process easier.
To stabilize the seams you can either purchase a water soluble spray-on stabilizer or a stabilizer by the yard. If you choose the latter, you simply dissolve a small amount in water to create a solution then “paint” the edges of your pattern pieces (shown below in a moment). In this case, I am sewing with a 3/8″ seam allowance so I stabilized about 1/2″ on each seam.
Which seams do you have to stabilize? Those that will be travelling across the feed dogs of the machines. For this pattern, this means all edges except the sleeve and shirt hems (which remain unfinished). I stabilized the short ends of the neckband as well, given as a last step in this pattern the neckband edges have to be topstitched closed in a little rectangle and I figured, “Why not?”. The neckband in general does not need to be stabilized as it is rarely against the machine (when you attach the band it will be the shirt bodice that travels across the machine surface) and it needs to stretch quite a bit to perform its function (which is to “snap back” after sewing and bring the shirt edge in to hug the neck).
Here’s a little photo-explanation of stabilizing (click each photo for more information):

After you’ve stabilized your seam allowances, you must let the pattern pieces dry. Give it overnight or, if you’re in a hurry, carefully put the pieces in front of a heat source (don’t burn your house down!). When the seams are dry, they will have a stiff edge to them. They may even be a bit waffle-y. Don’t worry about that, as on the machine they will sew up beautifully. Here is an example of the texture change resultant from the stabilizing process. It’s a bit difficult to see but it’s obvious to the touch (the green thread is the tailor’s tacks I use for pattern markings):

Now we’re all ready to sew!
In the Tee for Two pattern, the first seams sewn are those of the sleeves to the front and back bodice. I chose to do Option B. of the pattern – that is, a raw-edge, topstitched seam. This means first sewing the sleeve seams wrong sides together. The sleeve seams are curved – one generally a “convex” curve (the shirt bodice) and one generally a “concave” curve (the sleeve piece). The way you pin and sew these seams will make a difference in the ease of sewing. When pinning curves that have opposite lines (concave vs. convex), pin such that you’ll be sewing with the convex curve against the machine. To look at it another way, the curves will often look like they won’t match (don’t worry, if you cut accurately they will). Whichever seam looks like it has more fabric to be taken up during stitching, pin and place this piece against the machine. The natural action of the feed dogs will help subtly gather it (in the below photo, the brown is the sleeve, the natural-colorway the bodice. You can see the concave and convex curves):

When sewing – any time when sewing, but especially with a picky knit – hold the thread tails before you sew. This actually take a bit of practice. But if you don’t, your machine will often pull the thread tails into the machine’s throat plate. You’ll end up with a snarled-up bunch of thread and sometimes an ugly, bunchy seam. Observe the results when the thread tails were properly restrained:

After you sew each seam, you should steam press for best results. In general, it is always a good idea to “set the seam”, then press. “Setting the seam” is a technique I learned in a quilting class. It means pressing the seam just as sewn, before you turn it up and topstitch or whatever is next. Fabric is not two-dimensional but 3D – “setting the seam” helps integrate the seam into the structure of the garment (in this photo you can also see the nature of the zig zag that works well with stretchy knit sewing):

After you set the seam, go ahead and finger press it open and press with the iron again, this time in the formation you’ll want it in before proceeding. In this case, the seam allowances are pressed toward the bodice and then top-stitched down for a deconstructed-look finish. Since the seams are curved, it makes sense to use a tailor’s ham (although this is rather optional):

The final touch in the raglan bodice/sleeve seams is the topstitching with the raw edge finish. I chose to do this from the inside of the shirt. This is because the stabilized portion of the pattern pieces would be travelling across the feed dogs. When I tried this from the outside of the shirt (as you typically do with topstitching) the seam process distorted the fabric and made a wonky seam, so I flipped the shirt. As long as you go slowly and make sure to gently pull the seam open, sewing from the backside of the garment lends a good result:

Since I made the “puff sleeve” version of the garment, the next steps in the pattern were to gather the raw edges of the sleeve hem into the two strips that will form the finished sleeve. This is done by a long basting stitch on the sleeve’s raw edge to gather the sleeve, then applying the two edge strips simultaneously. Again, the importance of securing the thread tails before you sew will result in a clean finish:

After attaching the sleeve strips, you press them together (hiding the raw edges of the sleeve end) and topstitch. Easy-peasy!

For a more subtle finish, you could use a matching thread instead of the contrast I have done here.
The side seam is one of the last remaining aspects to shirt construction. I elected to do a typical finish – that is stitch it right-sides together, then finish the inside seam allowances for sturdiness. One nice thing with a knit is you usually only have to pin at the top and bottom of a seam. Go slowly and stretch to fit and you’ll have lovely results. I sewed at a 1/2″ seam allowance (instead of the pattern’s3/8″), because I knew my skinny-minnie daughter would fit just fine, and I wanted to trim the seam down to a clean edge before finishing the seams:

After trimming, and then stitching along the seam allowances:

The neckline is probably the trickiest part of this particular pattern, but it is an ingenious little treatment that not only looks fabulous but is a lot less trouble than most self-finished necklines. Two strips are sewn, one at a time, first to the outside of the garment than the inside. Both strips are simply overlapped at each short end. The outside strip is sewn at a slightly wider seam allowance. Thus when you press up both strips the seamline will cover itself. The only thing that remains is to sew a tiny rectangle, anchoring the overlapped ends of the neckband at the back-left shoulder.
So first, pinning:

I always imagine your Beginner stitcher is alarmed at this point. The neckband of shirts is always so much smaller than the shirt opening! But, that’s the point. This strip, cut against the knit grain, will pull the shirt neckline in to lie flat on the body. Again, you sew with the strip facing up and the shirt neckline against the machine. Carefully pin at a few places and stretch and the whole thing comes together like a dream.
Although the pattern doesn’t have this extra step, after attaching each neckline strip I prefer to trim the seam at 3/16″ from the innermost seam, then press up and topstitch:

Here’s the best trick I know regarding topstitching: go slow! Very few of us make “perfect” topstitching but the slower you go, and the more you practice, the better things will look.
Finally, stitch the little rectangle at the back-left shoulder seam where the strips overlapped. The best thing about this little square is it will look different every time. It’s like a signature:

Finally, either wash by hand or throw in the washing machine and dryer to rid the fabric of the crunchy stabilizer. Then present your client with their new shirt! After the cutting and stabilizing aspects of construction (which I typically do the night before and take about a half hour), the shirt takes less time to sew than it took me to write out this tutorial. It’s a quick and lovely creation.

You can see my Flickr tagset, including more details of construction, here.

THANK YOU KELLY!!!
I'll be back soon!

Check it out!

2010-06-24T11:37:00.000-07:00

Hi Everyone!

Just a short note to let you all know that Karen and I were guest bloggers
for Sew Mama Sew yesterday (yippeee). Check it out: http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/?p=8487

OH and Sunday....Fall Photo Shoot. Ahh, finally here!

testing 1-2, testing

2010-06-18T21:06:00.000-07:00

Patterns by Figgy's has had a wonderful experience with our new pattern testers.

They have been so helpful in every way necessary to produce a perfected pattern

for our seamsters. Our Fall pattern line will be released August 1, 2010 and each day we are

getting closer and closer. I am so proud of this line and feel so positive that each seamster

is going to enjoy their pattern and produce wonderful garb for their little ones.

Here is a little sneak peek at a few of our testers samples. Thank you ladies!

"Picnik Show"

Create a free slideshow with Picnik!

Angela: http://noisynorastore.etsy.com

Amy: http://thefabricbar.com

Daniela: http://tangerinesamurai.com

Erin: http://erine.typepad.com

Gabrien: http://dahliahandmade.wordpress.com

Heather: http://muffett.blogspot.com

Kelly: http://kelly.hogaboom.org

Regina: http://www.sanddance.etsy.com

For those of you looking for our pattern updates please visit our new website!

www.patternsbyfiggys.com

Happy Sewing! - Shelly

Beauty & The Bag

2010-06-12T00:12:00.000-07:00

I'm desperate to find the time to sew up a new bag for the Summer season. Browsing through Etsy is always inspiring and so I went window shopping and found these!

Day time stroll

http://www.etsy.com/listing/49248950/nauticalstripescarpetbag

Lunch Date

http://www.etsy.com/listing/46425378/naomi-collection-lined-in-magenta-silk

Night out

http://www.etsy.com/listing/49129711/red-frilly-leather-shoulder-clutch-bag

Coin Bag

http://www.etsy.com/listing/49249941/clearance-price-brown-cocoa-damask

Summer Bag Fun

http://www.etsy.com/listing/48602753/pleated-bag-with-double-straps-made-with

Enjoy finding your perfect Summer Bag!

I'll have the Blues with a Big Side of Happy

2010-05-22T11:23:00.000-07:00

The Blues

The weekend is almost over and I am happy about that!
Why? Because I was unable t to attend Quilt Market 2010 in MN (whine, sniff, sniff).
I've been scanning the internet googling "photos quilt market 2010"
just to sneak a peak, although it just deepens my blues.
I am happy that a few companies took us along with them, at least
they took our patterns. EE Schenck, our very first distribution company
that took us under their wing last year has our patterns for viewing in their booth along with the
Checker Distributors. This is good news. My favorite news is that Stephanie Brandenburg
designer of "Urban Art" decided to use our patterns to display her newest line. I think
there is even a photo of one of my son's in poster size!! I haven' received photos
from her yet. I would think she's probably a little busy.

If any of you are there and happen to see our little patterns floating around snap a photo for me
please!!!

The Happy Side (there's always a silver lining)

"Patterns by Figgy's" has a website!! www.patternsbyfiggys.com
To my faithful followers; I would love to have you pop over and subscribe to our blog posts.
Karen and I will be posting all pattern information, tutorials, helpful hints & GIVEAWAYS
on our site as we continue to develop and grow. We will also be releasing information & photos about our Fall line in just a few weeks! We have our photo shoot at the end of June and I'm counting the days until we can post the photos of our cute models.
Our testers are keeping busy with our emails back and forth. We have 8 testers for this round! Double what we had for the Summer line. I'm very impressed with every single one of our ladies from the beginners to the Advanced. They are amazing and so helpful in every step we take.

Visit us on our website soon! Did I just say website? wow.......we're coming along!

A pattern review!

2010-05-12T17:03:00.000-07:00

A wonderful pattern review is on Sew Mama Sew today! What better way to wake up than to hear such terrific words about the work Karen and I do? Thank you Gabrien for such a lovely post. She has been sewing a lot of Ottobre patterns recently and they are wonderful. You can see them HERE. Thank you to Sew Mama Sew for reviewing our pattern. You have a wonderful shop and community we love to visit. (Often!)

Here is Gabrien's little one wearing the "Beach Bum Hoodie." What a CUTIE!

Here she shows an example of hand stitching your facing to stabilize before machine stitching in place.

Love it!

-Shelly

I heart my students

2010-05-06T10:49:00.000-07:00

I love my family BUT when I have a chance to have a little time for me, I take it! I'm not in a position to to have a spa day or sit down at my favorite coffee house and just people watch. I'm like most of you, I'm BUSY. How I get away, just for me, is by teaching. As most of you know I mostly teach kids classes but on occasion I get to teach big people too. On Tuesday I taught our "Ofelia" pattern to four awesome gals. Anyone of those ladies I would love to have a cup of tea and share a story. Teaching is the best way and currently the only way to do that these days.

Why am I extra busy? A few reasons.

We are putting the finishing touches on our WEBSITE!! I can't release the link just yet but very soon.
Stephanie Brandenburg , fabric designer & artist, has asked us to create "Beach Bum Hoodies and Board Shorts" using her new Urban Art collection for her market booth. Be sure to check her out if you're attending.
We are currently finishing our pre-published patterns for Fall. Would you like a sneak peek? Click here, here and here! Each one being tested by amazing seamsters on all levels of sewing. We have had made it a point to allow extra time to create and concentrate on perfecting each one so that we don't have any issues! We want to focus on helping you create quick, fun patterns.
There are a few other surprises coming too so be on the lookout.

Thank you to my students for spending your day with me. Thank you in helping inspire me. Thank you for the laughs. It has been the perfect remedy for time needed just for me to share with you. See you in class!

You say Potato and I say Potato!

2010-04-23T15:27:00.000-07:00

We love to please our Seamsters. One of the ways we like to do this is by providing visuals. I know that I am a visual learner and I'll assume others are. The last post was about finishing the interior hoodie seams and now I'd like to show you my way to finish the interior board shorts seams. We have a wonderful tutorial on how to make smooth seams inside your board shorts as our pattern teaches here. Click on the photo to enlarge.

I say potato.

Pinking shears! For me this is the quickest way to sew clothing for my boys. They aren't extremely fussy about little strings or tags so I am able to pink my way through many outfits as they grow, which is way too fast. The other options are using your serger or zig zag your edges to keep from fraying.

Sew your side seams using 5/8" seam allowance. Remember when you are sewing your side seam you are changing your stitch length to a baste stitch between pattern pocket markings that you transferred from your Front shorts pattern. Later you will remove these stitches for the pocket opening.Apply your wondertape 1/4" away from the seam between your pocket markings you transferred from the front shorts pattern. Place your right pocket onto your tape with the raw edge of your pocket lined up with the raw edge of your seam. Press your pocket towards the front of the shorts, WRONG side facing WRONG side.

These steps are for the "no-iron" technique.

Press both pocket pouches and the entire seam to the front of the pants. Place pins to where you marked the pocket openings. I like to snip the markings because for some reason the chalk marks always seem to disappear by the time I get to this point. Place your wondertape along the raw edge of your pocket pouches. Adhere bias tape or twill tape and press. Topstitch on the right edge of the tape and then again on the left. The far right photo shows what the finished pocket will look like.

Turn your shorts right side out and beginning at the bottom of your shorts stitch 1/8-1/4" away from the seam line. When you reach your pins pivot your presser foot across and then back down the seam 1/8-1/4" away from the seam line on the opposite side. The photo on the right is what it should look like when finished. You can also do this with the shorts inside out but I like to see what I'm doing as I'm doing it. Repeat this step from the top of the shorts to the top pocket opening, pivot across and then back to the top.

Grab your seam ripper and take out the baste stitch that you stitched in the beginning while sewing your side seam.

Sew your center seam and press open.

The following instructions are for the loose pocket with either a single top stitched line or no topstitching.

Press your pocket pouches together as shown in the far right photo. Beginning at your side seam stitch the two pockets together 1/2" from the pinked raw edge. The pockets are no longer stitched to the shorts and hanging loosely inside. You will now topstitch the side seams as you did the "no-iron" pocket side seams. Another option is to press the pockets toward the front of the shorts and sew a single line along 1/2" away from the pinked raw edge of the pockets. This will keep the pockets from moving around on the inside but you still get to skip the bias/twill tape steps. Remove your basting stitch from the side seam.

Here are a few photos I was able to take because of the gorgeous weather here in Portland today.

Finished "no-iron" pocket

Finished "no-iron" pinked pockets.

Double topstitched, gorgeous pocket & single topstitch.

Here are a few shots of the hoodie where we used a serger for the seams.

Final Outfit.

Karen is here from Michigan visiting and we are having a pizza night out with the kids. Franco will definitely be sporting this awesome outfit.

Thank you for following along.

If you have further questions please feel free to email me or Karen anytime.

karen@patternsbyfiggys.com

shelly@patternsbyfiggys.com

You say Tomato and I say Tomato!

2010-04-22T15:38:00.000-07:00

Our "Beach Bum Hoodie and Board Shorts" pattern offers two options:

1. Heirloom quality soft seam construction

2. Standard construction

In other words, Karen's way & Shelly's way.

You say Tomato (Karen)

When my son Peter was diagnosed with Asperger's Syndrome and Sensory Integration Disorder, I was overwhelmed. Unfortunately for Peter, that's also how he felt. all. the. time. I learned then that making him as physically comfortable as possible would free up his capacity to deal with the world around him. For this reason I began making his clothing as soft on the inside as possible. Also, I needed them to last, because once he found a favorite, it needed to be washed and worn repeatedly until I could make more - that means durability was as important as comfort. Nowadays, I never leave threads inside, or tags, and I enclose all the seams. He has grown out of most of his sensitivities, but he still chooses a favorite and wears it until he wears it out. I know Peter was an extreme case of sensitivity, but I think the extra time and effort in construction makes each garment last longer (and more likely to be a favorite).

I say Tomato (Shelly)

Before I was able to focus all my business energy on pattern design and teaching, I sold my handmade garments online, at shops and art markets around Portland. I am an instant gratification nut. I rarely create adult clothing because of the amount of time it takes to create them. I don't quilt (yet) because it would take me longer than a day to see the final result. It's not that I don't appreciate gorgeous handmade quilts or beautiful time consuming garb or anything that takes me longer than two hours. On the contrary, I LOVE them. I'm inspired by them and I continue to better myself because of those pieces. I just happen to have two boys ages 6 & 3, a husband & a business. I challenge myself to create beautiful garments quickly without sacrificing the quality.

Follow along for a side by side hoodie tutorial

to see if you say "tomato" or "tomato."

(Shelly made the green one of hand-dyed hemp and Anna Maria Horner's Garden Party "Up All Night" squares for Franco, and Karen made the blue one-

also of hand-dyed hemp (from noonday textiles) and

Alexander Henry cars fabric for Jules.

Cut, Press & Trace

Freezer Paper or Swedish Paper. Guess who prefers which kind?

I'll use my pinking shears or dressmaker shears and Karen likes the rotary cutter.

Save time by "Chain Sewing" your hood back seam on the main fabric and the contrast fabric at the same time.
Press your seam open using a "Pressing Ham" (very helpful).
This we agree on.

To keep your raw edges from slipping pin the hood's top seam together.
You are creating a two-sided dart. This is to keep the hood from being pointy.

Match the pressed center of the yoke with the shoulder seam.

I pin my yokes and Karen uses wondertape.

Trim and Topstitch. I love my applique scissors for trimming!

I serge around the facing, turn & press.

Karen likes to create a pressing template for her facing. This is especially helpful if you're going to make more than one in the same size. To make: trace the pattern piece onto some file folder lying around your house or other cardstock. Then, trim away 1/4 inch from the bottom and sides of the template. You're now ready to simply press around and not burn your fingertips!

Layer time. Match the center back with the vertical seam in the hood and baste stitch together. We both pin. Karen will use wonder tape to hold her turned raw edge and I baste stitch the turned serged edge. We both use tailors chalk to mark the center seam on the front facing.

I baste stitch the facing to the hoodie on the WRONG side and then turn the hoodie right side out and stitch close to the basting stitch.
Remove the baste stitch.
Karen will use wondertape so the facing won't slip and topstitches.

Sleeve attachment. I serge.

This is where I really save some time.

Karen creates the enclosed seam as we outline in the instructions.

Karen uses the French Seam method.

Hem it. We both agree a nice serge and turn twice is the smoothest and the most professional way to finish your hem.
Thanks for stopping by. We hope this tutorial has been helpful for our seamsters who are visual learners. Please fell free to post your questions and comments here, and your creations pictures to the flickr group!

If only I were 11

2010-04-12T22:42:00.000-07:00

As most of you know I started teaching sewing classes at the new sewing studio, "Modern Domestic".

What can I say, it's TERRIFIC. What a breath of fresh air. No more hauling my machine, notions or anything else I had to lug around in the past. Most of the classes I teach are for children and teens, but don't worry adults I'm still teaching "Patterns by Figgy's" patterns. This past Sunday I taught a "Project Runway" skirt class to a group of 11 year olds. It was a special sewing birthday party! During my childhood I remember cake and ice cream but I don't recall getting to have a sewing party! All but the birthday girl had sewing experience, but she was sewing as well as her friends by the end of the class. Kids are terrific this way, no fear just fun. They were ready to start sewing and designing as soon as they arrived. The shiny machines, tool kits and fabrics awaiting for them was so exciting for the girls. Modern Domestic made them their own little notions bag for them to take home, so cute!

We started with learning how to take body measurements and then broke out the Swedish tracing paper. Using a little math & a long non-slip ruler, designing the A-line skirt for just themselves was next. Kids are awesome because every part of sewing is fun for them. As soon as they cut out their pattern piece they immediately began to dance around saying "ohhh, look at my new skirt, ohhh". You can imagine how much fun they had once they actually sewed the skirt together. I think turning 11 for our birthday girl was a party that she'll remember more than just the cake and ice cream.

Thank you girls for being so nice, respectful & fun. You made feel like I wanted to be 11 again!

Refreshing Spring

2010-04-06T20:13:00.000-07:00

I met Karen because I was inspired by her work. That inspiration grew to a friendship and then to a business partnership. It's hard for me to surf the web due to lack of time but I love to browse through my contact list on Flickr or stumble upon something on Etsy or 1000 Markets.
Most recently I found these Inspirational Refreshing Spring Items.

Gorgeous Felted Mixed Media

"Speckled Egg Nest" by Katy at Winsome Hollow

This beautiful garment was created by one of our lovely pattern testers, Jenny from The Southern Institute of Domestic Arts & Crafts.

I love this photo! I think it captures what we all miss sometimes.

Childhood, Cupcakes with no worry later, Sunshine & Happiness.

Photo by: Jeannine from Kinder Kouture. She also creates beautiful children's garb.

Calla Lily Earrings by Sarah from "A Fine Distraction"

Kathy from "Pink Chalk Studio"

Jamie from Pretty Ditty.

Cute package from The Fabric Bar

Thank you for the Refreshing Inspiration!

Happy Sewing - Shelly

Hoods and Seams and Questions Oh My..

2010-04-02T19:13:00.000-07:00

As the patterns are rolling out and people have begun to sew, a few questions have arose.

One of the very important things for us is being there for our seamsters. We want you to feel comfortable emailing us and know that you will receive a message back quickly including actual help or answers if you need them.

HOOD SIZE

Karen designed this hood on the larger size because little ears need to be covered when the wind begins to blow. I can't tell you how many coats or jackets I have bought for the kids and the hood barely covers the back of their ears. Plus, Julian has really BIG hair and I have never been able to fit his head all the way into a hood (honestly, his hair is BIG) so I can appreciate a larger hood. I've also noticed my son Franco pretending to be a Jedi when his hood is up and we all know how our boys LOVE Star Wars!

SEAMS

The most recent patterns we have designed, "The Beach Bum Hoodie & Board Shorts" & the "Ofelia Dress, Shirt & Bloomers" were designed for children that are sensitive or for the mom that wants to make an heirloom quality outfit that will last several hand me downs. The terrific thing is if you're looking to make a cute hoodie or pair of shorts quickly then you can use your usual method of finishing seams. A zig-zag stitch, serger or pinking shears will do the trick. We wanted you to have the option of learning new methods and if you do have a sensitive boy (or girl) in your life and you want to help them feel more cozy in their clothes then this is your answer! Take note that you don't have to use the smooth seam finish with just this pattern. You can use it on clothing for yourself or home decor items. Bonus: the pockets have been designed for we "non-ironing" types.

I love taking Franco's shorts out of the dryer and I don't have to worry about the pockets all bunched up.

I chose to serge around this facing because honestly, I love instant gratification and pressing and turning is just not my thing.

I made a few samples for the Modern Domestic Sewing Studio Classes

If you live in the Portland Oregon area and want some assistance and want to take your sewing to a new level just sign up for the class and I'll take you through your new venture.

PS: If you have a question leave a comment or just email us direct! shelly@patternsbyfiggys.com or karen@patternsbyfiggys.com

Happy Sewing!

ATTENTION: If you have purchased the"Beach Bum Hoodie and Board Shorts" or "Ofelia"between February 14th & March 30th 2010 and need a 2nd edition instruction booklet please email me and I can send the new booklet via email or post.

Modern Domestic!

2010-03-27T15:07:00.000-07:00

A wonderful new sewing studio and machine shop has opened and I'm so grateful to be part of the teaching staff! Since the patterns have taken off, I decided to scale down my teaching from 5 places to just 1. Whew. I'm very blessed and excited the patterns are being loved but something I love to do on the side
it teach children. They are the future seamsters of tomorrow and without home economics being taught in the schools someone needs to pass along the art.

Not only do I love teaching but I love having an outlet to sew myself. Working at home can be difficult trying to establish "work time" with my sweet boys peeking in and asking "Wanna play Cars?" when Daddy's not looking. Trying to find time to just sew up something, anything is also hard. So leaving the house with only having to bring a pattern & fabric is fabulous! I also have "sewing fight club" once a month or twice a month is I'm lucky. I would tell you about the club more but our first rule of sewing fight club is we don't talk about sewing fight club.

Loft Classroom.

Toys!

Thank you Michelle, Lupine and Gina for opening such a terrific shop and for allowing me to be part of the teaching team! If you are interested in finding an open sewing spot or taking a class or two visit www.moderndomesticpdx.com! See you there!

sensitive kids smooth seam pockets

2010-03-19T16:02:00.000-07:00

One of the many reasons I love Karen's work is because of her amazing seams. Since the first time I saw her work on Flickr a few years ago she has continued to impress me over and over again. She so graciously added this awesome tutorial for our pattern "Beach Bum Hoodie & Board Shorts". We hope to add many tutorials for our seamsters so you won't feel all alone late a night when you're sewing and have a question.

Happy sewing, we can't wait to see your flickr photos!!

STEP ONE

Stitch your 58/" seam allowance with a normal stitch length (I used 2.5mm for this lightweight linen canvas). When you reach your markings for the pocket opening, backstitch to secure, then use a basting stitch (6.0mm)between markings. When you reach the second pocket-opening mark, backstitch again to secure and continue with your original stitch length.

Note: do not finish edges, as they will be enclosed eventually. If you use a loose weave/"ravely" fabric, be sure to reinforce seam allowance with light interfacing (I like pro-weft interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply) as you'll be handling these seams a bit throughout these steps. No need to reinforce regular weave fabric if the garment has enough ease (i.e. isn't intended to be tight-fitting)

STEP 2

Place double-sided water soluble tape 1/4" from the raw edge of the seam allowance toward the front.

Alternatively, you could pin at any of these taped steps, but I'm telling you, the $3 you'll spend on double-sided sewing tape will save you a lot of fiddling and guarantee a decent result.

STEP 3

Place the raw edge of the straight side of your pocket right on top of the tape and stitch.

STEP 4

Press the pocket bag toward the front. Make sure to double check that you are stitching the pocket on the FRONT pant seam. I've actually attached the pocket and pressed it to the wrong side and created side seam back pockets - top stitched and all, woops.

STEP 5

Repeat for back pocket and press both pocket bags toward front. (back pocket lain over front here, not yet stitched to seam allowance. I apologize if that is confusing.

STEP 6

Trim the seam allowance on the front to 1/4" wide. No need to trim under the pocket bags...they'll be enclosed.

STEP 7

Fold the seam allowance on the back over the seam allowance on the front.

Meet the raw edge of the back seam allowance over the trimmed front seam allowance so it comes close to meeting the original seam stitching line. Press. It's helps to use one of those tiny craft irons.

STEP 8

I like to use cotton twill tape because it's pretty soft, but you can use bias tape that you make or purchase. Steam it into the general shape of your pocket (as shown) to make it easier to attach in the next step.

Get out that wonderful tape again, and stick down the two pocket halves to the front of the shorts/pants/dress/skirt....(these are shorts)

Mark the actual opening of the pocket with your pins.

...remove the sticky-back paper to attached the pre-steamed twill tape. Stitch the tape down. This will secure the pocket bags to the front of the garment.

STEP 9

After you stitch the pockets to the front of the garment, stitch the folded over seam allowance toward the front from the bottom of the garment up to the pocket opening mark.

Pivot the garment, stitch across the folded seam allowance, and stitch back down to the taped edge. Repeat from the waistband edge of the garment to the top pocket opening mark.

STEP 10

TA -DA!!!

It may seem like a lot of steps at first but the heirloom quality along with the durability makes the time you put in worth it. For a quicker result you can always use your preferred method (pinking shears, seger or zig-zag) on the seams but use our technique for the pockets.

It does move along faster after the first time.

Thank you for visiting. Come again!

Front Page News!

2010-03-18T16:27:00.000-07:00

Lovely Thursday Surprise! Thank you Etsy!

the sun will come out tomorrow...

2010-03-14T22:21:00.000-07:00

Not that it's been cloudy, but tomorrow is Mail Day! We are very excited to send the new patterns to you and most of all we can't wait to see what fabrics you use to make your little outfits and what special touches you add to make it all yours. Thank you for such wonderful comments, warm response and support of small business!

As the pattern was being tested and booklets checked over I decided to make a few hoodies & shorts for my boys. I wanted to try a few different fabrics with our pattern and I think the results turned out great. I don't like to make the same pattern over and over again but our pattern has a lot of options and I love that we created a pattern I can actually use for my boys. My niece Ofelia is 10 months old and has 3 years worth of clothing to wear so I felt it fitting that the boys get something.

I decided to use shot cotton for Julian. He is the funniest boy I've ever met and bright colors suit him. He always wants to wear cozy clothes. Don't ever try and put jeans on this boy, too rough. I wish it was just a little warmer here so I could shoot some shots of him in this one. Shot cotton is thinner than regular cotton and can ravel easily but using our method for seams it kept the fraying to a minimal. I left the bottom hem on the hoodie and shorts for a real beachy feel.

Franco is sweet and compassionate. Calm colors and soft fabrics suit his taste and preference. I had an old 80's sweater that just sat around in the fabric room waiting to be made into something new. For some reason I didn't donate the sweater and now I know it was waiting just for Franco. I knew I would be unable to use our soft seam method because of the bulk so I serged the edges to keep the insides from becoming a cat's companion. I had bought some really awesome plaid fabric over a year ago at my favorite shop in Ohio "Sew To Speak" and it was a perfect compliment. Using my regular way of finishing seams, this little goodie went faster but I sure love the look and feel of the soft seams as do the boys. So keep in mind when you sew your creation you have options. You don't have to be on the beach either. Franco wore his hoodie today for ski ball, sky walking, go cart racing. We had a terrific family day that was much needed

after a long couple of weeks.

Have A Great Week! Shelly

2nd Chance to Win!!

2010-03-13T00:18:00.000-08:00

The addiction began as a child. My mom made my sisters and I clothes for all occasions and while we'd watch her sew she would give us scraps to cut up and make doll clothes. I remember the trips to a very small fabric shop that we visited very often. If I close my eyes I can still remember the smell of the bolts lining the walls. As I grew the fabric shops grew. At first it was fun to roam isle after isle but as I became more mature (a nice way to say older) I became more curious and more particular about the quality and design of the fabrics. Having limited shops to frequent prior to my moving from Ohio to Oregon I would roam the isles of my favorite online shops. I discovered a whole new world that was amazing. Double gauze, Japanese linen, fine silks and the fabric designers....wow! I'm so thankful for the online shops that make you feel like you're in a little intimate shop and are filled with inspiration. One of these shops is "The Fabric Bar". I originally found the shop on flickr. I was drawn in because of the gorgeous photos and a witty owner. One of my dreams came true just a few days ago when the owner of "The Fabric Bar" chose to sell our patterns in her shop!! Then yesterday I received a wonderful email from Amy stating that she is going to host a giveaway on her blog featuring our new patterns!! Thank you so much Amy for believing in us and filling me with daily inspiration!

Head over to "The Fabric Bar" blog for another

chance to win one of our patterns!!

a boy and the beach

2010-03-05T21:27:00.000-08:00

Sort of a beach, Sauvie Island. Sauvie Island is situated between the Columbia River to the East, the Multnomah Channel to the west and the Willamette River to the South. It's the closest thing to a beach we could get to in Portland. Due to the weather we couldn't drive to the Coast to take the cover shots for the "Beach Bum Hoodie & Board Shorts" pattern. None of this mattered to Franco. All it took to perk him up was seeing water, any water. A puddle would have sufficed to spark his enthusiasm.

I had the pleasure of photographing the cover for our "Ofelia" pattern and it was lovely. We skipped, giggled and had a very sweet shoot. Amada would love to have had her picture taken all day long. This session was a little different. I had to get down on my knees, look Franco in the eyes and say "I need you to stay clean while I take these pictures. I need you to try and understand the importance of these photos I'm going to take of you. Afterwards, we will get some ice cream."

Thinking about this now really makes me laugh. Really, Shelly? A 6 year old understanding the importance of these pictures. All he heard was "ice cream." I digress.

Franco listened very well to my instructions and had fun with the camera for the first 30 minutes then he just couldn't take it anymore. Since Franco was about one year old he was a fish. Drawn to any type of water he could swim in or play with. The moment he saw a big boat floating down the river that created little mini ocean waves, he was done. He ran straight for the water. The shoot was over. I gave in and let go of my work brain and just watched him enjoy the water and the beach.

Just like anything you do in life (at least for me) you have to live it to learn from it. The next photo shoot (if Karen trusts me to shoot ever again) I'm just going to let the boy go and play and I can just click away.

Thank you Franco. I couldn't have dreamed of a better you!

The Result of a boy photo shoot. Love it!

The "Beach Bum Hoodie & Board Shorts" will be available for delivery, beginning March 15.

Visit http://www.patternsbyfiggys.etsy.com/ to get yours.

(If you'd like a preview of the special techniques used to create those shorts for sensitive kids,

visit Karen's tutorial and let us know what you think.)

Eaney Meany Miney Mo.......

2010-02-28T17:40:00.000-08:00

My Mother said to pick the Very Best One and you are...........

IT!

Congratulations LODMELL HOUSE!!!

On March 15th we will be sending you a Custom Sized Raglan Tee from the One Girl/Boy Circus clothing line and the "Beach Bum Hoodie & Board Shorts" pattern. Please email me at patternsbyfiggys@live.com to let me know the size you would like for both the Tee and the Pattern!!!

BONUS!!! If you haven't heard the good news yet, head on over to

Karen's blog www.onegirlcircus.com/blog because we decided to

giveaway TWO patterns/tee's because of your wonderful responses!!

Also, don't forget the last day for the PRE-ORDER sale is tomorrow March 1st !!

www.patternsbyfiggys.etsy.com

THANK YOU! Shelly - Karen

SPEAK NOW OR FOREVER HOLD YOUR PEACE

2010-02-26T20:06:00.000-08:00

The first thing I do when I have a new pattern is take out the pattern piece and get lost in the design. I love to look at the designers handiwork -- probably because I know how many hours and hours they have spent grading, changing and perfecting a pattern and the many test samples that were created to get just the right look and fit. After I find my way back, the next thing I do is CUT! I am an instant gratification kind of gal. I cut out the size I need and never look back. Fickle is an appropriate to describe my sewing style so I don't repeat many patterns unless they are ours and even then, mostly for testing. Even when I design my own pattern I measure, draw, cut and repeat. I think it comes from all that time spent of making paper dolls and their paper dresses with my mom when I was young.

Now my PBF partner Karen....she's a tracer. She preserves her patterns for longevity and re-use for different kids and growing kids and will get to enjoy them for many years to come. She uses her own patterns 98.9% of the time but when she isn't you'll probably find her tracing a Japanese pattern or an Ottobre pattern. Even when she makes her own, once she makes it, she traces it for alterations and style changes.

We are a perfect example of Yin Yang and I love it.

We were talking about printing of our future patterns and trying to decide wether to print the pattern design so the seamster can cut out the pattern or print them front to back so you will have to trace it. We couldn't agree on which to do so we decided what better way to meet your needs than to ask you, the seamster.

So we ask you:
What do you prefer? Trace your pattern or Cut out your pattern

Majority Will Rule. So make sure to vote!
Survey is located on the TOP RIGHT sidebar of the blog.

PATTERN GIVEAWAY!!

2010-02-22T10:13:00.000-08:00

Patterns by Figgy's is happy to introduce our first (of many) boy pattern! We are hosting this giveaway as part of "Boy Month" and as a thank you for supporting small business, handmade & boys.

The “Beach Bum Hoodie & Board Shorts” pattern will be a wonderful addition for your boys wardrobe this Spring & Summer. The pattern will allow you the seamster to be creative with fabric choices so that the Hoodie can last all seasons throughout the year. The pattern instructions will help you learn how to create seams that are ultra smooth for the sensitive boy who loves comfort.

Not only are we hosting a giveaway but we are also offering a PRE-ORDER sale. For all pre-orders we are selling the pattern for $10.00 (retail price $12.00)!
To Pre-Order your patterns please visit our Etsy shop: www.patternsbyfiggys.etsy.com All wholesale accounts please email us at patternsbyfiggys@live.com. Our official pattern release date to the public will be March 15, 2010.

For a chance to win this wonderful pattern please leave a comment and follow our blog for a chance to win. Winner will be announced Monday, March 1, 2010. Keep reading because it gets even better!

Guess What!! The giveaway doesn't end here!

Along with the pattern giveaway my partner Karen has generously added her Raglan Tee to the package! For a double entry you can also jump over to Karens blog and leave a comment too! www.onegirlcircus.com/blog

Thank you to Rae and Dana for hosting Boy Month. All mothers of boys appreciate all these wonderful tutorials, ideas and giveaways! Visit Dana and/or Rae

for more exciting boy news!

makes it all worth it

2010-02-12T23:10:00.000-08:00

Loving what I do for a living comes easy but the hard work and long hours... what makes it all worth it? Supporters like Melissa. Melissa bought the "Mary Go 'Round" pattern from me on Etsy. I can't remember who emailed who first but her email ID quickly changed from the standard to "Melissa, Friend". Melissa doesn't have children yet but she has one on the way :). Her reason for buying the pattern was to create the dress for her friends daughter and also to make a few more for her friend to sell. Her friend is in the process of adopting a little boy from Ethiopia and she is hosting a bazaar in order to raise money to help in the adoption process. This is one of the reasons we at "Patterns by Figgy's" love to share. Surprisingly, there are a lot of bigger companies that either make you pay a fee to sell a creation made with their pattern or they don't support the home sewer at all. I won't waste your time venting in how absurd I feel about this so back to Melissa. She sent me an email last week that had wonderful attachments. Three photos. I love to see photos of the creations our seamsters make and this photo was even more exciting because it was of the little girl and her mother. As you can see the photo is amazing. Melissa's friend happens to be a photographer (if you couldn't already tell) here is her website check out her wonderful work:

www.schellphotography.webs.com

Thank you Riann for allowing me to show off your daughter and your work. Thank you Melissa for making it all worth it. I can't wait to see photos of your new little girl!!

-Shelly

Va Va Voom

2010-02-12T09:20:00.000-08:00

Sarai from Colette Patterns just listed a free pattern on her site today.

Happy Valentines Day to me. I think I'll have to pair these with my

Rooibos Dress. Visit her pattern shop for V-Day treat just for you!

Click HERE !

Loving Colette Patterns - A Cutting Tutorial

2010-02-11T18:31:00.000-08:00

Most of us have heard the advice “Measure Twice & Cut Once”, well that is advice I’ll always listen to. I’ll admit, I have sewn many a garments without taking an updated measurement and the creation ended up as a gift or tucked away out of sight.

I found the best little tutorial online regarding proper measurements on the Sugardale Blog.

I have a class in March teaching the Rooibos dress by Colette patterns and I thought this would be a great pattern to help guide someone on cutting properly. Her measurements are accurate which makes for a terrific finished garment.

Learning how to read a sewing pattern involves recognizing the various symbols that are used. Here are the most important symbols to know.

Solid Black Lines represent a cut line. When patterns have multiple sizes you’ll need to look at how the black line is varied in pattern and make sure to follow that line all the way around the pattern.

V-Shaped Notches illustrates where two pieces of a pattern will match up. When cutting your pattern piece it is important to either follow the triangle by sniping inside the seam allowance or something safer would be to cut a V on the outside of the seam allowance. Most of the time you’ll find these on curves so that the two pieces line up correctly as you’re sewing around a curve. If you see two V-notches do the same thing but twice.

A solid line with two arrows pointing to a solid line this indicates a “fold” line. Meaning you want to place the solid line with the fabric that is folded. This creates a “double” of that pattern piece.

A Long line with an arrow at the top and the bottom indicates the grain of the fabric. This is very important because the grain of the fabric defines how the garment will lay on your body. Generally the line will run parallel to the fabric. When it is pointing to the side it means that they would like you to cut on the bias for extra stretch.

Dots: There are three things dots can mean; they can indicate where to begin stitching , indicate where a fastener of some sort (button, snap etc.) should be placed or where two pattern pieces will be placed together.

Now that you know how to read the pattern symbols it’s time to cut out your pattern pieces. If you see that your pattern is wrinkled use your iron to press it flat but make sure your iron is set on the lowest setting.

For the Colette dress I was a size 8 for the bust and a size 6 for the hips so when I cut my pattern pieces I knew to cut out the size 8 for the bodice and midriff pieces. For the skirt pieces I cut out a size 6. If you are between sizes it is best to cut the larger size because you can always take your seams in as opposed to having a dress that is too small. During the Rooibos class I will teach those students with multiple sizes how to ease these pieces together for a great fit.

Before you lay your pattern pieces on the fabric fold your fabric so the “right” sides are together. On some garments you will need to make chalk marks or fabric pen marks and most of the time you are sewing pieces inside out and you’ll want to be able to see these marks. Lay your pattern pieces following the guide in your pattern booklet. The end result will look like this:

Pin your pattern pieces down so that your pattern is stabilized. Some people like to use weights but I feel pins are more stable. Make sure your fabric is smooth and flat so that your pattern is stabilized.

Remember when you come across a V shaped notch be sure and snip the V and when you see dots take your fabric pen and press directly onto the pattern and it will bleed through to your fabric. If your making the Rooibos dress you’ll notice Long V symbols. Place a straight pin so that it lines up with the V and mark the fabric with chalk. I recommend the Clover Chaco-Liner Marker.

When you have darts or pleats on a pattern piece that is cut on the fold you’ll need to unpin the pattern turn it upside down and place it on the other side of the fabric.

When you finish cutting all your pieces to your pattern lay them flat and double check that you have all the pieces you need.

Now I’m going to go sew up this gorgeous Colette dress and I’ll see you in class at

Bolt Fabric Shop on March 10th & 17th from 6:30-9pm.

Ironing Board Face Lift

2010-02-07T20:01:00.000-08:00

This year I decided not to make a New Year Resolution.

I decided just to get things done without the pressure of disappointing myself. I have been busy with creating patterns, teaching and raising two boys that many things have been neglected. First on the list was my ironing board cover. When I browse my favorite blogs or visit home photos of my favorite fabric designer, the embarrassment of neglect is heavy on my shoulders. I took my weekly trip to Bolt and viewed so many gorgeous new home décor prints that I was instantly inspired to get to it.

So here it is, my poor cover:

I know, pathetic but my excuse is the thousands of hours I spend pressing and fabric shopping and pressing.

Ironing Board Makeover

Supplies: Home Décor Weight Fabric,Quilt Batting which can be used for more than just quilts. If you have any leftover think “coasters” , Coordinating Thread, Marker, 4 yards of ¼ “ elastic or 4 yards of draw string and a ruler.

* Measure your ironing board to estimate the amount of fabric/batting you’ll need. For the average size you’ll need 2 yards.

1. Lay your quilt batting flat on a clean floor and then lay your ironing board right on top. Draw an outline of the board directly onto the batting.

2. Cut your batting and lay it on top of your ironing board. You want to make sure it sits nicely on your board and if you notice that it’s drooping over the edges then trim off the excess.

3. Lay the batting directly onto the wrong side of your new fabulous fabric. Mark a 3.5” boarder around the batting and cut your fabric using your pinking shears. If you don’t own a pair you can finish the edges by using a zig zag stitch. I used a serger that my lovely mother has allowed me to borrow (nice mom).

4. Create a hem by turning the fabric ½” and press flat.

5. Sew around the pressed edges but leave a 1” opening. You just created a casing, good job!

5. Attach a safety pin to the end of your elastic or string and feed it through your casing.

6. If using a drawstring place the cover over the board and batting and pull until tight. Tie a bow.

7. If using elastic take the two ends of elastic laying ½” on top of ½” and stitch together. Place over the batting and board.

You’re Finished! I can’t believe I put this off for a year and it only took me 30 minutes.

I’ve decided to make a second one for a backup!

My Favorites for Today

2010-01-31T22:49:00.000-08:00

If you know me then you know I am a chameleon when it come to my wardrobe, book choices and of course my home decor. In Ohio my mom would come over often and each time she would walk in the door and say, "you changed it again". The chameleon decorator in me LOVES that I sew just for this reason. You can make enough envelope pillows to change the look in your house weekly for a lifetime.

So for today these are my favorite things:

1. GOODREADS: I am hooked. You can visit my shelf here. I haven't listed them all just yet because I just discovered it yesterday.

2. GERTIES BLOG: She's vintage, she's modern and she's fun.

3. SHOES: If you really really love me you can send them to me.

4. My SEWING FIGHT CLUB: our first rule of sewing fight club is we don't talk about sewing fight club but this month it was my turn to host and I had such a wonderful time that I only took one photo (how sad but great).

5. SKYPE: because of skype my online BFF and business partner Karen was able to come to sewing fight club on Saturday, Woohoo.

6. BEDTIME: Yes please

7. NEW PATTERN: Bought the Fabric at Bolt and sewed it up that night and wore it to Sewing Fight Club the next morning.

8. MY SOAP: One thing I'll never change. It reminds me of my mom and childhood.

9. ELDERBERRY EXTRACT: I have a terrible immune system. Zoom Care knows me by my phone voice already. This is my miracle of the week. I was fighting a cold and this baby helped me push on through.

10. BOOK: John Irving...so far so great. He sure knows how to write.

Have a great week my friends!

Holy Jumpsuit Batgirl Tutorial

2010-01-27T17:04:00.001-08:00

Attaching the front of the Jumpsuit to the Back can be a little tricky.

With this in mind I thought a tutorial was appropriate.

Let's begin with page 8 of the booklet:

Open the bodice Front and the bodice Facing at the side edges:

With the Right side of the bodice facing the Right side of the Pant Back match the top of the waist casing side seam to the under arm side seam:

Baste Stitch to Stabilize:

Fold the Bodice Facing over the top of the back casing creating a "sandwich":

Stitch the side seams through all the layers and continue the seam down the side leg:

Last Step: Flip the Facing back over the casing so the bodice Front and the bodice

Facing are once again WRONG side together!

I hope this tutorial has helped anyone struggling through this step. Have Fun!